Labels:text | screenshot | font OCR: its ordinary descent because the water runs away and finds no obstacle, but in its rise, from which it will fall, comes back and percusses the antecedent wave, which comes jousting with it, and above that it breaks without harming the one which it percusses. A "It is the falling wave which breaks, and not the one which receives it, because a percussed wave has greater and swifter motion than a striking one-and although the first percussion may cause to break somewhat the surface of the receiving water, the second leaps, being
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